Cosmetic Industry

Phospholipids are the main components in any cell membrane of the human body. Phosphatidylcholine is predominant within this important group of lipids. Due to their ability to form structures similar to those of cell membranes and the lipid layers in the stratum corneum (SC) as well as their affinity towards the SC lipids, phospholipids are ideal raw materials for the preparation of functional cosmetics with high skin compatibility. Phospholipids give the skin smoothness and elasticity. Hydrogenated phospholipids strengthen the natural skin barrier function leading to reduced moisture loss. Natural phospholipids contain relatively high amounts of linoleic acid. The latter plays an important role in the human skin`s own synthesis of Ceramide 1, a lipid that is important for intact barrier function. This makes soybean-based phospholipids attractive because they are particularly rich in linoleic acid and are available in GMO-free quality from Lipoid.

Phospholipids are the value providing components of lecithin. They are extracted from renewable raw materials such as soybean, rapeseed and sunflower oil. They are available on an industrial scale either in their natural unsaturated or in the hydrogenated saturated form.

Lecithin and phospholipids exhibit manifold technological and physiological properties and thus are valuable raw materials for the production of modern cosmetics.

They are:

• natural and skin compatible
• biodegradable and therefore environmentally friendly
• toxicologically safe

Due to their amphiphilic character, phospholipids can fulfill different functions in cosmetic formulations.
 

Phospholipids contribute to the efficacy of skin and hair care products. They form very thin mono- or oligolamellar layers on the skin which remain even after washing and have the following positive effects:

• better smoothness and suppleness of the skin
• protection against degreasing
• improved moisture balance of the skin
• improved combing quality and reduced electrostatic charge of the hair

The positive impacts of phosphatidylcholine from soybean in the treatment of acne vulgaris, atopic dermatitis and other inflammations of the skin are described in numerous papers.
 

Phospholipids have the ability to emulsify oils and lipophilic active ingredients in form of W/O or O/W emulsions. Nanoemulsions are effective transport vehicles for lipophilic active ingredients (PhytoSolve^®, Ultraspheres^®).

Phospholipids form liposomes in aqueous systems. These small particles built of bi-layer membranes that surround an aqueous core, are ideal transport vehicles for hydrophilic, lipophilic and amphiphilic active ingredients. The encapsulated active ingredients are released uniformly in the skin. Therefore they are well tolerated and can be applied in lower doses compared to conventional systems. In addition, empty liposomes (liposomes without active ingredients LIPOID Liposome) based on soybean phospholipids have a proven positive impact on skin impurities and acne. This is due to the high content of linoleic acid.

Unsaturated phospholipids are essential parts of the cell membranes in the epidermis. Because unsaturated phospholipids are in the liquid-crystalline state at body temperature, they modify and fluidize the packaging structure of the barrier layer, resulting in an increased permeability of actives.

Phospholipids can prevent pigments e.g. in aerosols from agglomerating because they can coat the pigment surface. Besides that, they improve the pigment-skin-adhesion of e.g. lipsticks or make-up. Phospholipids significantly account for the stiffness and storage stability of e.g. lipsticks because they prevent or slow down the crystallization of the fat phase in the formulation.